Last year was a big one for streetwear. Fashion’s long-forgotten cousin hit the mainstream, with everything from the Yeezy line to Gosha’s post-Soviet chic to Vetements’ high-end take on hats and hoodies dominating runways and the street style shots outside them.

But even as the column-fillers hold strong, aficionados know than small labels releasing tightly controlled, coveted collections, are where streetwear is most exciting. Here are seven brands to keep an eye on this year.

Off-White

Virgil Abloh’s credentials need no introduction to dedicated streetwear fans. Kanye West’s fashion advisor is involved in an endless stream of projects and collaborations, but his Milan-based label Off-White (founded in 2014) is the one that will be receiving mainstream attention this year.

It’s a refined collection that captures the essence of streetwear, but whose wallet-destroying prices and crisp aesthetic firmly put it in the bracket of luxury fashion.

Key Piece

This minimalist varsity jacket is a key piece, traditional and pared-down on the front panels, but featuring the signature Off White logo on the back. Because logos are all-important, even in fashion’s upper echelons.

Thames London

Thames London is the brainchild of Blondey McCoy, an 18-year-old skater, artist and designer. Now in its second year, the skatewear brand has a fun feel to it, with graphic T-shirts featuring Anglophile prints or twists on classic Disney characters.

McCoy has an authenticity often lacking in fashion lines based on the skate scene – he’s part of the Palace Skateboards crew and models for their lookbook. These reference points to the scene he grew up in were clearly enough to get him noticed – Thames is stocked by London’s famous skate shop Slam City Skates, as well as Supreme.

Key Piece

This graphic T-shirt featuring a child-like sketch is one to pick up.