Homegrown Horology

Fine watches, or haute horlogerie if you’re really on your A-game, have long been the territory of the Swiss, famed for intricate levels of craftsmanship and an unerring dedication to tradition. And, for the most part, they’ve deserved it, having persevered through the Quartz Crisis.

However, times are changing – and no more so than on our home soil here in the UK. British watchmaking may have suffered peaks and troughs over the past 150 years or so, but recently we’re seeing a resurgence that shows no signs of abating. From the 1600s to the 1800s it was Britain, not Switzerland, that was considered a world-renowned watch mecca, and several brands are keen to bring the heritage home.

“It’s an exciting time for the British watch trade,” says Adrian Maronneau, buying director at DM London. “There are a lot more brands coming through that want to push the British strapline and shoppers also want to buy into this heritage.”

British-made watches are becoming increasingly popular, but the term ‘British-made’ can be problematic in itself. Just two British watch brands can rightfully boast complete manufacture within the UK, while components from Switzerland are still commonly used.

This is mostly borne out of necessity rather than simply watching overheads, as there’s a real shortage of required skills, labor and factories that can deal with the demand. This too is changing though, and there’s plenty to suggest that many volume-friendly brands will take all production completely in-house in the near future.

There’ll always be a place for Swiss watches – that much is certain. But if our rundown of the UK’s finest is anything to go by, Britain is proving itself a worthy adversary in the global arena.

The Luxury Leader: Bremont

Based in the idyllic town of Henley-on-Thames, Bremont has a distinctly British flavor. Brothers Nick and Giles English (how apt) founded the company after their father died tragically while training for an air show, and the sibling’s passion for watchmaking has only grown since.