Men's watches

The Best Heritage Reissue Watches To Buy In 2022

Plundering the past isn’t a new thing for watch brands; however, recently it seems we’ve reached ‘heritage’ saturation. Going to the Baselworld or SIHH watch fairs is like walking into a horological Downton Abbey, with everything lovingly recreated down to the perfectly faux-aged patina.

But there’s a reason for this, other than vintage style still stealing a march sartorially on new design and a slight reticence to invest in R&D. It’s down to our love of nostalgia too.

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“In our modern world, the correct time is ubiquitous, either on phones, computer screens, car dashboards, or microwave ovens. The wristwatch is virtually obsolete and has become more of a style accessory searching for relevance,” says Adrian Hailwood, senior watch specialist at leading UK auctioneer Dreweatts.

“Little wonder that both brands and buyers are harking back to a time when watches were important pieces of equipment. Witness the focus on tool watches, diving watches, chronographs or field watches, most completely unnecessary for a sedentary lifestyle, but in their day, watches that could genuinely save lives. We are not wearing timekeepers so much as stories for the wrist.”

Here’s a few whose tales are worth telling.

Tudor Black Bay P01

Not so much a reissue as a resurrection of a prototype, this Tudor divided opinion when it was launched at Baselworld 2019. The original was intended for the US Navy, who were having problems with knocked crowns and easy-to-move bezels on their Submariners. Tudor solved those issues, but the US Navy thought the finished product was too technical, so it was shelved and disappeared into a rumor.

Fifty-one years later, it’s back. Its bulky aesthetic doesn’t photograph well, but in the metal, it’s actually a rather smart-looking fellow. And has an origin story that would impress Marvel.

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