Men's watches

The Omega Speedmaster Ultimate Guide

Yet the calibre 321 retains somewhat lauded status among Speedy collectors, partly because the column-wheel chronograph, which features a vertical clutch as opposed to a horizontally coupled chronograph, is a more technical way of operating this function, as opposed to the arms-and-levers construction of a cam, but also because it was only used for 11 years of the Speedmaster’s life making models that carry it extremely collectable.

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Owning A Speedmaster

Servicing

When it comes to servicing, Omega recommends you have your watch serviced every four-to-five years. At a recommended cost of £520 for a mechanical chronograph that might seem like an astronomical outlay, but this is something that is on your wrist daily, whose mechanics are whirring away, maintaining a mean rate of accuracy of +4/-6 seconds over 24 hours. Work it out on a “cost per wear” basis over five years and all you’re doing is putting away ~£0.28 a day to keep this beauty ticking on your wrist for a lifetime.

It is also a bargain when you consider what happens in a service. The watch is completely dismantled, and when we say completely we mean case, dial, hands and movement in its entirety, then assessed to see precisely what it requires. The case and bracelet are polished up to “just left the factory” standards and the pieces of the movement are checked to see which parts are worn and need servicing or replacing; if necessary the movement will even be upgraded to the latest model. Then there is more cleaning, washing and checking that the watch has been restored to Omega’s stringent criteria. Again, it makes just over £500 seem like a bargain.

Styling Advice

If you’ve taken the plunge and bought your coveted Speedmaster, chances are you will want to wear it every chance you get. However, as with any watch there are a few style rules and just because it costs the same as a second-hand car, that doesn’t mean it goes with everything.

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