The watch industry moves at a pace that makes menswear look indecisive. But then, developing a new case shape isn’t like making your tees a bit longer. When faced with a big dent to the R&D budget, no wonder most brands stick to making round watches in different colours.

But at this year’s SIHH and Baselworld, the big brands proved they can think outside the box. Or, perhaps, inside it; where once watchmakers offered only curves, suddenly there were angles, a glut of square-faced timepieces not seen since the dawn of Art Deco.

Why this shift? A fruit-themed smartwatch shoulders some responsibility. But it’s equally, well, just because watchmakers can. With roots in 20th century military watches, the square case isn’t new ground for the industry. But the scale of production is. Switzerland only jumps on bandwagons when they’ve proved they’ll go the distance. Judging by these highlights, an investment now will pay off down the road.

Tag Heuer Monaco

Worn by one-man moodboard Steve McQueen, TAG Heuer’s Monaco is probably the most iconic square-faced watch in history.

Back then it was strapped to racers’ wrists, but the split second accuracy they demanded lives on in TAG’s Calibre 12 movement – which vibrates 28,800 times an hour. Handy, even if you only use yours to time pasta.

Available at The Watch Gallery.

Larsson & Jennings Norse

Larsson & Jennings has built its brand on Scandi-Anglo cool. In the new Norse model, that means a minimalist dial housed in an angular case which references the 19th century British soldier’s timepiece of choice.

To keep things out of a history lesson, the black-on-black-on-black approach adds a modern spin.

Available at Larsson & Jennings.

Roger Dubuis Golden Square

Roger Dubuis is best known for complicated tourbillons that look like something RoboCop might wear. But it hasn’t always been that way.