Vintage Americana

Much like nautical and military, Americana continues to influence and play a prominent role within menswear each and every season. The term Americana is undeniably wide-ranging and its definition differs depending on who you ask. For SS14, designer and high street collections have made clear references to 1940s and 1950s America – from Ivy League-inspired aesthetics and Hawaiian prints to the timeless style of silver screen icons such as Marlon Brando and James Dean. A perfect accompaniment to the warmer spring/summer months, this year’s Americana trend combines a colourful palette and vivid patterns with a slight rebellious streak for those daring enough to embrace the look.

On The Runways

Two major design houses showcased strong Americana influences in their SS14 previews: Louis Vuitton and Missoni. Kim Jones, Head of Menswear at Louis Vuitton, was inspired by a road trip across America and looked to echo this feel within his spring/summer line, referencing everything from Ivy Leaguers and frat boys to greasers and trust fund babies. A wide and varied collection, it was clear to see the development from one look to another. Following the end of World War II in 1945, men’s fashion started to move away from traditional monotones hues and began embracing colours/patterns in a form of rebellion after a period of austerity and rationing. Louis Vuitton looked to visualise this transition by applying check and plaid motifs to classic blazers, suits, shirts and shorts. The label went on to combine bold coloured and checked separates, creating a mish-mash effect that worked extremely well and helped bring this vintage aesthetic bang up to date. Surprisingly, wide collared, peak lapel shirts were prominent throughout the collection – a style described by GQ as being worn “by the Beat Generation’s finest: Jack Kerouac, Allen Ginsberg and William S Burroughs”. These were offered in bright hues and paisley patterns, while other more subtle prints included an interesting black and midnight blue tie-dye. Outerwear has long been a key component of preppy style, particularly the varsity jacket, and a highlight of the label’s SS14 showcase came in the form of a striking red cropped jacket complete with collegiate patches and a big ‘V’ letterman-style logo. Other cropped blousons and baseball jackets also featured in various colours and fabrics, including navy cotton, light brown leather and pillar box red snakeskin – with shapes and cuts reminiscent of James Dean’s iconic red windbreaker in Rebel Without A Cause: