Bad linen suits, the lumpy, crinkly, misshapen kind that resemble a discarded sack of potatoes, have given the style a bad rep over the years. But if you understand that quality (and the subsequent cost) is a prerogative, then you’ll soon realise there truly is no better way to do tailoring in the sweaty, sticky summer.

For the uninitiated, linen is a natural fibre that comes from the flax plant, the name having derived from the Latin name of the plant. “Before the advent of man-made fibres, linen was often used as the inner layer of expensive garments, which is why it is still referred to as lining,” says Holger Auffenberg, head of design at Savile Row tailor Chester Barrie.

But, somewhere along the line, linen graduated to full suit status. It’s maybe the ultimate warm-weather fabric and a vastly underrated choice for tailoring. Here’s everything you need to know.

Why Buy A Linen Suit?

Linen’s history as one of the most interesting and practical materials in clothing owes much to its secret powers, faculties that really come to the fore in hot weather. Good quality linen isn’t necessarily lightweight, but its low thread count makes it cooler than cotton while it’s also said to be 30 per cent stronger than its summer fabric rival.

“Linen also absorbs water while a high-quality linen suit will be at its best for longer than a cotton or traditional wool suit due to its natural resilience,” says Simon Maloney, creative director at bespoke clothier New & Lingwood. Chester Barrie

“Although a high-quality linen suit will feel rougher than a new cotton or wool suit it does get softer over time and is conveniently hypoallergenic, so it doesn’t have to be aired out after dry cleaning like a wool suit.”

The major issue with linen is of course how easily it creases, a concern to be embraced rather than be fearful of, according to Christopher Modoo, creative director at tailoring brand Kit Blake.