Who would have thought that a bunch of intersecting lines of various widths, colours and spacings, first devised to delineate different highland clans from one another, would become one of the most plundered fashion tropes of all time? Perhaps it’s the geometric simplicity of checks, plus the almost infinite colour combinations, that have made this pattern an permanent name on fashion’s team sheet.

You could have thrown a dart at any of the London, Milan or Paris fashion week schedules earlier this year and hit a brand using checks in its collection. But before you go out and blaze the shops like William Wallace on a supermarket sweep, know this: wearing checks has the potential to be Roadrunner to your Wily Coyote. Lives have been ruined by an abhorrent check blazer, and as for the guy who always shows up at summer parties in garish check trousers…

On the other hand, if you understand the rules of engagement, checks have a good habit of making you look refined by default and it’s a partnership you’ll covet for the rest of your life.

Check Mates

Despite the huge variation of checks available, there’s no need to overcomplicate matters. These are the five key styles to check off your list, each very different from the other in both looks and deployment.

Gingham

A neat, tight check pattern that becomes almost mottled to the eye at distance, gingham is typically a medium-weight plain-woven cotton yarn, although in the summer you’ll see plenty of linen blends. Thought to have originated in northern France, gingham was made almost exclusively by Manchester mills in the 18th century. Popularised by mods in the sixties, it’s nevertheless suitable for work and play. Its colours are often bright, which makes it a good option for layering.

“The easiest way to incorporate gingham into your wardrobe is with a shirt – either a casual Oxford button-down or a formal shirt,” says Sarah Gilfillan, founder of personal styling consultancy for men, Sartoria Lab. “If you want to be a bit bolder, a small gingham check looks great in a bomber jacket.”