Sanforized Denim

“Sanforized denim goes through a process of being steamed and stretched that eliminates most of the shrinkage before the fabric is sewn into a pair of jeans,” explains Danny Hodgson, owner of London-based Rivet and Hide , a shop specialising in high-end denim.

Unsanforized Denim

“Unsanforized is loom state: fresh off the loom and has not been through this process. Those of us of a certain age will know this as ‘shrink to fit’.” Unsanforized denim will reduce in size by around 10 per cent so the jeans need a soak to eliminate the shrinkage before wear. This can be done by submerging them in a bathtub filled with lukewarm water for around 30 minutes. For extra crazy points, you can actually wear the jeans while sitting in the bath to ensure a perfect fit for your body type . Once that’s done, hang them outside in the sun by one of the belt loops to ensure they don’t lose their shape. But don’t forget to take them off first.

How to Pick the Right Raw Denim Jeans Size & Fit

All of these variables make picking out a pair of raw jeans that won’t leave you drowning in fabric or cut off your circulation notoriously tricky.

When it comes to how raw denim should fit, keep these tips in mind:

Go Up for Unsanforized, Go Down for Sanforized

As a rule of thumb, if you’re opting for unsanforized then go up one size to accommodate shrinkage. For sanforized, the opposite is true. This type of denim will stretch a fair bit over the first few weeks of wear, mainly in the seat, waist and thighs, so if you like a snug fit you’ll want to take that into account.

Consider the Style

Each raw denim jean will have a different style or fit. From skinny to boot cut, to straight leg and flares, you can find raw denim jeans in a huge variety of styles.

Personal preference aside, style also greatly influences the fit of your jeans.