London Fashion Week Men’s may have lost some of its mainstream appeal over the last few seasons, but there is one highlight that continues to impress every time: A-Cold-Wall*.

The streetwear-heavy label has garnered somewhat of a cult following in the four years since it was founded. Today, it’s not uncommon to see its worshippers queueing around the block just for a glimpse of its shows, which are less traditional catwalks and more multidisciplinary performances.

But then, the man behind the brand, Samuel Ross, isn’t a traditional designer. Rather than attend a prestigious fashion school or have existing industry ties, Ross ultimately got his breakthrough on Instagram. He got the attention of Virgil Abloh through the platform, who saw something in Ross before hiring him to work on projects for Off-White and Yeezy.

Then, in 2015, Ross started A-Cold-Wall* and it wasn’t long before those queues began. Taking inspiration from the British class system and the sharp lines of brutalist architecture, ACW* has become known for its innovative fabric use and functional detailing.

Generating extra hype by collaborating with Nike and Oakley, the awards started to flow, and the latest – the Hublot Design Prize – grants Ross with 100,000 Swiss francs (around £80,000) to further his design ventures.

FashionBeans spoke with Ross to discuss success, streetwear<, and what the next decade of menswear holds.

Image: Charlie Thomas
FashionBeans: How does it feel to have your work recognized on a global scale? Samuel Ross: It feels quite brilliant. With the Hublot Design Prize, I’m almost returning to what I was trained in. I studied graphic design and was a product designer before moving into fashion, so it feels good to be in a space where I can balance both – an industrial design career alongside a celebrated fashion career – and see both recognized as well.