Mohair will forever be associated with the sharp two-tone suits worn by the mods of the 60s and 70s. Think Paul Weller, Ben Sherman, Quadrophenia and Swinging London, arguably the first time you could wear tailoring and look edgy. Utilized in a mix with wool to create the famous ‘Tonik’ fabric, it was a luxury fibre that gave a crisp, clean appearance to suits of the era – the perfect accompaniment to penny loafers and a Vespa scooter.

A natural fibre taken from the Angora goat (confusingly, angora wool comes not from the goat, but the Angora rabbit), whether it’s used alone or blended with other fabrics, mohair brings a slight sheen or iridescence to a cloth. It’s warm in winter and cool in summer due to its wicking properties, and it’s an excellent performance fabric – its crease resistance and ability to take dye makes it an ideal tailoring material.

Recently mohair’s reputation has suffered due to the poor treatment of goats in a few South African farms and a number of designers and retailers have dropped the fabric completely. However, where ethically sourced, mohair’s superb properties make it an excellent basis for a jacket or suit. Here’s everything you need to know about what to look for in a mohair suit.

What Is A Mohair Suit?

You don’t have to be Martin Freeman or Bradley Wiggins (both committed modern mods) to enjoy the benefits of a mohair suit today. Whether used on its own or blended with other fibres, mohair will be a versatile addition to your tailoring wardrobe. Christopher Modoo, creative director of tailoring brand Kit Blake says, “Mohair is stronger than steel and adds resilience to lightweight wool suits. Although pure mohair exists, I prefer it blended with other fibres.” You get the breathability and sheen of mohair, but without its sometimes harsh crispness.