The precise attention you give to each area will depend on your face shape and desired outcome, but one rule holds true for all. “The sideburns can puff out, so get those bad boys under control,” says Murphy. You’ll notice every scissorsmith worth his salt will take these in tight when you go for a professional trim. “You can follow this at the top of the cheek line for a face-squaring fade.”
For the ultimate square beard – and therefore a squarer jaw – work the neck like a pro. “The weight under the chin can become quite bulbous. Comb this area out and trim it with as flat a line as possible – this will enhance the chin,” says Murphy.
“Random growth patterns are where things get tricky. Some areas grow into others causing them to jut out.” A barber’s trick here is to use a comb with a naked trimmer rather than using a guard. “You’re essentially combing to expose stray hairs then trimming. Finish with a beard balm to keep the hairs in line.”
How to Trim a Long Beard
A long bushy beard has been a marker of strength, wisdom and downright unabashed manliness for as long as history can remember. If you were hoping to add a touch of badass to your appearance, but don’t fancy splurging on a Harley or a leather jacket, growing a massive beard is the best way to go.
You’re obviously going to need to relax the rules on how often you trim back your beard. Think on the previous tips for a mid-length beard and cut back on the number of trims per week. “Also allow the sideburns a little more length now. Trim a line across the cheeks so you don’t just look like you’ve given up,” says Murphy. “But you can start to let your mustache grow over your lip. A trim ‘stache doesn’t really work with a longer beard.” There’s a reason they call them flavor savers, you know.
Steady hands, boys, steady hands. “Free handing with your beard trimmer is about to become more commonplace, so get some practice in,” says Murphy. “As the beard grows past the neck, you can maintain the neckline using the Adam’s apple rule, but let the hair growing from the jaw pass that line to create a fuller beard.”
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