Men's fashion guides

How To Buy A Three-Season Suit

With frost coming, your tailoring needs a cold-weather tweak. But cosy suiting isn’t wise if your office comes with central heating. In our mod con world, buying a suit specifically for three months of the year is an expense that can leave you sweating. Instead, you need fabrics suitable from autumn to spring, so you don’t have to shell out every time the seasons switch.

Worsted Wool

Wool is nature’s weather-beater. The fibres trap heat, but also encourage airflow, so you stay cool even when transitioning from commute to overheated office. But weight is crucial, says Julian Fuller, head of menswear design at Debenhams. “The ideal is 280g to 300g Super-100s wool.” You won’t bake, but it’s still heavy enough that you’ll only need an overcoat when the weather turns. The S number refers to the fabric’s fineness – the higher the number, the more delicate (and less hard-wearing) the material. Super-100s means you won’t wear the trousers out by new year. For extra versatility, a three-piece offers additional protection against snow, but you can ditch the waistcoat if the sun comes back out. Elverton 4ply Worsted Wool Suit, available at Chester Barrie, priced from £995.

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Merino

Shorn from the eponymous sheep, merino is not only finer than ordinary wool – which makes it super-soft – but also practical. “Merino wool helps to regulate temperature,” says Stuart McCullough, managing director of Woolmark, since it ensures heat escapes when it’s hot, but not when the mercury drops. It’s also springy enough to withstand an afternoon on the back of your chair – should you misjudge the temperature – without creasing. To ensure the style is as adaptable as the construction, steer classic. A dark grey version will work from bare trees until daffodils pop up, so long as you adjust your accessories; think texture in winter and colour for spring. This charcoal two-piece by T.M.Lewin features a modern silhouette and 100 per cent merino construction, making it appropriate from equinox to equinox. Banbury Charcoal Tonic Two-Button Slim-Fit Suit, available at T.M.Lewin, priced £199.

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