How To Buy A Damn Good Suit, As Revealed By Tailors
The result is a completely unique, exquisitely crafted ensemble that can be altered to continue fitting beautifully for decades. “Some people say bespoke is expensive, but that garment will last you more than 20 years,” Hitchcock points out. “Divide the cost by 20 and you basically have a bargain.”
Steven Hitchcock
Common Suit Buying Dos And Don’ts
Do spend as much as you can. In his book of menswear guidance, Elegance, G. Bruce Boyer wrote: “Buy the absolute best you can afford. Fine clothes will last 10 times longer than cheap, shoddy merchandise, will feel and fit better, and of course will look better. A cheap suit looks cheap even when it’s brand new, while a good one retains its appearance after years of wear.”
Do look at things you can’t afford. It’s only by trying on and gauging the quality of several £5,000 suits that you’ll gain the knowledge and experience required to pick the best £500 suit on the market. Boldly venture forth into Tom Ford and Kiton, my son. (Buy something, if finances allow.)
Do remember that ‘God is in the details’. Nothing gives away a low-quality suit like a poorly stitched buttonhole.
Don’t buy a suit with fused inner canvas. They’re stiff and lifeless – plus, after a short span of time, with cleaning and body heat the glue used to fuse the layers of fabric will begin to bubble, creating a blistered paint effect. “And then you have to throw away your suit,” says Seah. “It’s far wiser to invest in a hand-canvassed suit, which may cost more but will last exponentially longer, and look far better throughout its lifetime, than a fused suit.”
Don’t entertain the idea of a black suit (even in black tie, where the deepest midnight blue is a far handsomer option). Instead, look to charcoal grey or navy, elegant colours that complement virtually all skin tones and body types.