In menswear, classic pieces are often pitched as ‘must own’. The idea is that no wardrobe (and no life) can be considered complete unless you’re in possession of a navy suit, a charcoal overcoat, and a pair of dark blue jeans. But fashion is not Pokemon, and your style journey is not about mindlessly collecting pieces to earn the respect of your peers. Unless you’re into Supreme.

Need is, after all, in the wallet of the beholder. All of which is a long-winded way to say that when faced with a choice of smart lace-ups, it’s wise to pick the best Derby shoes for men over Oxfords.

Why? Because these days menswear’s modern default is casual, and the most versatile pieces are those that can do the business dressed up or down. “Oxfords are exclusively a formal shoe that can even go wrong with chinos,” says Luke McDonald, a stylist at men’s personal shopping service Thread. “A Derby is like a Swiss army knife; they’re multifunctional. If you own a pair of jeans and ever want to look remotely smart, you should have a pair. They even work with cords and joggers.”

Put simply, a solid pair of Derbies can slot into near-enough any wardrobe. They’ll let you level-up laid-back looks, and relax stuff that’s smart. They are not essential. But for almost any man, they’re damn useful.

What Is A Derby Shoe?

For those who can’t discern between a Derby and an Oxford shoe (no shame in that), just look at the laces. On an Oxford, the space between the eyelets tab – that’s the strips of leather either side of the tongue, with holes punched through for the laces – will be sewn shut at the bottom; on a Derby, they’ll flap open when the laces are undone.

It’s a subtle difference, but one that speaks volumes. An Oxford is, literally, strait-laced. It’s rigid and formal, smart but safe. Its cousin, the Derby, is open. It’s loose, fun and is happy to slum it with slim jeans or sit beneath a three-piece suit.