As statements go, it was certainly a bold one. Just a year into his tenure as CEO of Breitling Georges Kern launched the most un-Breitling Breitling ever by resurrecting the Premier from the brand’s archives. Suddenly a name more associated with oversized pilots’ watches is now on a dial of a watch that would be best described as ‘elegant’.

However, this diversification isn’t limited to Breitling; over the last year brands such as Vacheron Constantin with its FiftySix and Jaeger LeCoultre with its Polaris collection have made a very deliberate bid for the new young and style-conscious watch buyer, which is exactly where the Premier is positioning itself.

It’s a range that is robust but refined, vintage but with modern touches and at a price point that doesn’t make your eyes water. And, after reading the rest of this article, it will most definitely be going to the top of your watch wish list.

The Breitling Premier’s Design

The new Premier is not so much a reissue as a reimagining. Elements of the old watch are still to be found in the typeface, the style of the hands and its overall appearance, but things have been updated for the 21st century.

“The new Premier models allow us to reflect on that impressive past, but of course, they tell their own new story: their elegance, performance, and quality are everything you would expect from a contemporary Breitling watch,” says Kern.

Breitling Premier B01 Chronograph 42

In practice that means a larger case – 40mm or 42mm – as opposed to the original 35mm, which is just too small for contemporary tastes and, rather than a fully convex dial there is a convex area in the centre in homage.

The 1940s Premier collection was solely chronographs, which makes sense given Breitling’s prowess with that particular complication, however the design team made a decision to expand the range this time around to include a time only and a day-date, which allowed them to offer options at a lower price point.