What do Robert De Niro, Sylvester Stallone and Al Pacino have in common? Sure, there’s the superior acting pedigree. And yes, they’re all identifiable by surname alone. But more than that, they are known for being unquestionably badass. Why? Well, it’s easy to look badass in a field jacket.

Whether it’s Travis Bickle in Taxi Driver, John Rambo in First Blood or the eponymous undercover cop in Serpico, all three turned to the stone cold menswear classic whenever they wanted to suggest something of a counter-cultural status. And for good reason.

Part of the golden trio of outerwear pieces with obvious military origins – alongside the bomber jacket and the flight jacket – the field jacket has been endlessly re-interpreted since leaving active duty. Eminently functional, as service pieces had to be, the M65 also managed, crucially, to transcend its origins, allowing men to wear it without also slipping into Action Man territory.

It’s hardly surprising, then, that it has – in some variation or other – featured in collections from just about every menswear designer in recent seasons, from Dior to Tom Ford, via streetwear brands the likes of Stussy and Supreme; in every colour and fabric too, from navy wool-cashmere to raw state ecru cotton.

Need more convincing to make this the season to invest? Here’s everything you need to know about the most underrated piece of military menswear, from how it came to be to the best brands to buy from today. And yes, we’re talkin’ to you.

What Is A Field Jacket?

Designed in the 1940s for military purposes, the field jacket is a light to medium weight garment identifiable by its four front bellows pockets. These were intended to aid soldiers in carrying equipment without the need for an obtrusive bag.

Traditionally, the hip-length jacket often, but not always, had epaulettes and a belt or drawstring, which gathered the garment at the waist to both aid heat retention and also help prevent it getting caught on undergrowth. The fact that it flatters your silhouette probably wasn’t especially important to generals.