How To Make Sure A Suit Is Good Quality

Buying a suit off the peg shouldn’t bring your style down a peg or two. Shop wisely, and you can pick up Savile Row quality for a stitch of the normal price.

Recognising said quality, however, is more difficult on the high street. Which is why we enlisted some expert help to spot the little-known features that make for a money-looking suit.

Fine Fabrics

“Fabric is arguably the most important element of a quality suit, and it should be breathable, soft and strong,” says Rob Williams, director of clothing manufacturer Hawthorn, which makes suits for some of the biggest high street names. “Avoid man-made fibres like polyester – they may look passable to begin with, but since they retain heat, the suit is prone to wrinkles throughout the day.

“Instead, opt for wool fabrics that use a ‘Super’ or ‘S’ scale to define the composition. This refers to the amount of times the yarn is spun during manufacture, so the higher the number, the finer and lighter the fabric may be.”

Clean Stitching

“High-quality stitching is easy to spot since it will be clean and strong – something that adds shelf life to a suit,” says Williams. “Look for consistency within the stitching, as lower quality suits usually boast irregular patterns or a lack of pick stitching.”

For the uninitiated, pick stitching refers to the fine stitches you’ll find around the edge of the lapel or breast pocket. “Although it serves no functional purpose, it’s an extra process that suggests greater care.”

Quality Buttons

“Opt for buttons made from a quality material, like horn or corozo buttons,” says British tailor Richard Thompson. “Plastic can look cheaper, and thus makes a suit look the same – bespoke and premium suits rarely boast shiny buttons.” It’s not the mid-noughties and you’re not in the Libertines.

Canvas Construction

“The canvas of a suit refers to the construction of the blazer, and there are three main types: canvassed, half canvassed and fused,” says Williams. “I’d recommend opting for the first two, in which a layer of horsehair – the traditional choice for such a process – is inserted between the suit fabric and the lining. A fully canvassed suit boasts a full layer of reinforced cotton along the entire front of the jacket, whereas a half canvassed suit will line just the lapels and chest.