In the world of fine watches (or haute horlogerie if you want to sound Swiss and proper), statement pieces are more divisive than any wide leg trouser. Too gauche for the purists and too, well, statement, for the rest, a quick search on a dedicated forum will reveal keyboard wars of near-nuclear proportions.

Though just as the trend for smaller watches has inclined, so too has the taste for grandstander wrist trophies says Erica Redgrave, a buyer at luxury etailer The Watch Gallery. “Mirroring the recent release of Dolce & Gabbana’s first tourbillon line, the appetite for more statement watches has grown thanks to the likes of Hublot and an ever swelling market for novelties – one-of-a-kind pieces that normally err on the side of peacocking.”

If the beauties below are anything to go by, the peacocks are fighting a winning battle, too. Just remember that not every statement watch has to look like something Diddy would wear.

Bell & Ross BR03-92 Black Camo

With a history rooted in aviation, Bell & Ross didn’t look to the skies at this year’s Baselworld, but placed boots on the ground. The Black Camo – a monochrome take on an enduring menswear trend – adds stealth to the statement by co-opting military fatigues into an all-black watch. This is what they meant by special forces.

Available at Bell & Ross Boutique London.

Projects Watches Crossover Steel

If you believe time to be an abstract construct, opt for an equally cerebral piece from Projects Watches. With a clean, clear dial that can flit between multiple looks, this Pick Up Stix-inspired ticker is more Centre Pompidou than Fisher Price.

Available at Projects Watches.

U-Boat 8105 Classico U-47 AS1

It doesn’t get much more statement than a U-Boat. Clocking in at a mighty 47mm in diameter (essentially big enough to rest your pint on, but please don’t do that), the Swiss-made Classico line is designed for big tastes and even bigger wrists.