Clothing and style

Bespoke vs. Made-to-Measure vs. Off the Rack: What’s the Difference?

Oliver Wicks

I’m talking about Oliver Wicks, Indochino, Blank Label, Black Lapel, Knot Standard…the list goes on and on.

They all have basically the same process: you submit your measurements and select your fabric and details, then they send your order to a factory overseas (usually in China). Your suit is shipped directly to you 3-6 weeks later.

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It’s a hit or miss process. For first time MTM buyers, I’d say it’s mostly miss. It’s just really hard to get a great fitting suit through the process of self-measurement. Even with “professional” tailors taking your measurements, things can go horribly wrong.

One thing I’ve learned is that there’s no correlation between how polished the brand is or how slick their retail locations are, and the actual quality and fit of their products.

In fact, I’ve had some awful experiences with brands that have super impressive fit shops, complete with slick, charismatic staff who offer you whiskey while you flip through fabric books and talk about what kind of jacket lining best suits your personality…

My point is: a nice customer experience is great, but the actual product is what matters. And your first MTM suit won’t be perfect, unless you get very lucky.

But if you’re patient and willing to really dial in your measurements, MTM can be a great option. Some of my favorite suits are MTM, including this bright navy summer weight Oliver Wicks suit I’ve been wearing a couple of years.

Compared to my Suitsupply suit, this one conforms to my body in a much more comfortable, flattering way.

Oliver Wicks made-to-measure suit (unstructured “soft shoulders” jacket)

I think the suit looks better on me, but perhaps more important, it feels better.

When a suit fits well, it’s actually much more comfortable. Most guys aren’t comfortable wearing suits, which is why focusing on fit can be really helpful.

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