Top Of The Class

The bomber has been, without a doubt, THE jacket silhouette of recent seasons. However, the term ‘bomber’ is confusing, with the word now used by the industry to classify a wide range of cropped jackets that feature elasticated hems and cuffs. This generalisation doesn’t do the silhouette justice, as each style of bomber – from Harrington to flight jacket – has a unique heritage and is associated with a distinct aesthetic. So when looking to differentiate between the wide variety of bomber jackets on the current market, as is often the case, the details provide the difference. Today we focus on the classic varsity jacket, the sportiest of all bomber styles. Born out of the American school system, it graduated with full fashion honours and has gone on to cement its place within the wardrobes of style-conscious gents worldwide. And with vintage Americana and sports luxe trending yet again for SS14, it’s time this iconic preppy staple takes its rightful place in the spotlight…

The 2014 Varsity Jacket

Traditionally, the varsity jacket (also known as a baseball or letterman jacket) features a boiled wool torso, button/popper fastening, ribbed cuffs and waistband, contrast leather sleeves and a boxy fit – yet the modern industry definition isn’t so rigid. Contemporary versions are now crafted in a wide variety of materials, which range from cotton and nylon to suede, feature zip-up fastening systems and are cut slimmer through the body. And it’s not only the core construction that has been altered, with many current iterations choosing to eschew bold preppy colour combinations and chest detailing/patches in favour of an altogether more refined and minimal aesthetic. However, although the style has evolved almost unrecognisably since returning to prominence back in 2010, this new approach by designers will be welcomed by men that maintain a versatile capsule wardrobe. Pick one in a classic neutral hue and it can be dressed up or down effortlessly, ensuring it will slot seamlessly into your personal style. That’s not to say you should dismiss old school letterman jackets all together. While wool is not a practical choice for spring/summer, a slim-cut, two-tone version in lighter cotton, silk or a technical fabric would make a great statement addition to your casual collection. Ultimately, you’ll be sacrificing versatility but it will definitely make your off-duty looks stand out from the crowd. In terms of detailing, cotton or even denim styles with leather sleeves offer a luxe take on the trend while traditional collegiate badges/patches give the piece a sense of authenticity – perfect for crafting preppy or Ivy League-inspired looks. If you opt for a more minimal take, look for tipped cuffs and waistbands as they add a subtle point of interest to an understated design.