Gieves & Hawkes Autumn/Winter 2013 Collection

The appointment of a new design director, Jason Basmajian, means a change in creative direction for Gieves & Hawkes – one which many will see as an innovative new chapter, possibly long overdue, for the esteemed Savile Row brand.

For AW13, silhouettes have been slimmed and a total of three new on trend colours have been added in the form of chambray shirts. Shades of blue and grey have replaced stern black for suiting, giving them a more approachable aesthetic; a message Basmajian wishes to apply to Savile Row in general.

The designer’s individual flair, creative innovation and forward-thinking nature saw him introduce a t-shirt into the traditional Italian collection of Brioni, and now he has plans for a major shake-up of Gieves & Hawkes – including their home at No. 1 Savile Row.

It is a home which Basmajian is proud to be a part of: “London is the most exciting city in the world and it’s the home of tailoring” says the designer, in a recent interview with GQ. “It’s such a beautiful blend of tradition and what’s cutting edge that lives so harmoniously together to create something that is quintessentially British.”

He also states that he does not want the brand to become “fashion-led”, with the new collection celebrating the style, history and luxury of the label, whilst maintaining and producing items that will appeal to the modern man. As a brand which dates back to 1771, the attached heritage certainly commands respect.

The British heritage aesthetic is therefore strong in the new AW13 collection, with some pieces looking almost theatrical in their imperial style. Yet subtle alterations, such as the streamlined silhouettes and widened colour palette, are sure to make the brand appealing to both first-time buyers of bespoke and Savile Row veterans.