The Swiss city of Geneva is known for being the home of luxury, but even by comparison the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie is flashy with a capital F. More commonly known as SIHH, the trade event houses some of the most expensive diamonds and timepieces in the world. But that’s not to say there’s nothing sensible to be gleaned from ogling the world’s finest timekeepers. So here’s our pick of SIHH’s most exclusive watches and the features to look out for if you’re thinking of investing.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic Tourbillon Universal Time

A platinum watch is hardly understated, but it’s a refreshing move from Jaeger-LeCoultre – a brand that goes through diamonds like most people do cereal. The bling isn’t completely gone, mind. The classic-looking dial hides a complicated tourbillon movement within a tourbillon. That’s basically watch-speak for ridiculously complicated.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar

It seems minimalism is infectious. Audemars Piguet (a brand that countsNicki Minaj, Jay Z and Rick Ross as fans) surprised SIHH with a monochrome perpetual calendar in the watch world’s material of the moment: ceramic. No gold. No platinum. No diamonds. Just don’t drop it.

IWC Da Vinci Tourbillon Rétrograde Chronograph

Despite a pricey marketing campaign, IWC’s Da Vinci tribute hasn’t been given the warmest of receptions. That aside, the brand seems to be making a stellar effort to reverse fortunes with its latest tourbillon – a gold-cased design that lets wearers precisely set the time to the very second.

Panerai LAB-ID Luminor 1950 Carbotech 3 Days 49mm

Panerai has developed the lightness and durability of its carbotech material to a high point. Which means the latest LAB-ID Luminor is probably the brand’s most functional dive watch yet. Plus, it features a dial made from the world’s ‘blackest black’.