Even in the ranks of men’s jewelry, signet rings have always been a sign of wealth and status – a literal form of power dressing, spotted on the pinkies of anyone from kings to bankers, Popes to mobsters. So it’s perhaps a surprise that they are making comeback in fashion right now.

Then again, maybe not. Pinstripe suits are back. Gold watches, too. And like those baller statements, the signet ring is for everyone these days, whether you have a hedge fund and a family crest or not.

One reason is the second season of American Crime Story, which tells the story of Gianni Versace’s murder. Gianni wore a signet – it was one of his most iconic pieces, adorned with a snarling Medusa head. The brand that still bears his name re-released it recently, so you can get in on the knuckledusting action.

Whether you want to wear something as ostentatious as a men’s gold ring featuring a snake-covered head from Greek mythology is another thing. Most men are reluctant to go for gold – or silver, or bronze, or any other precious metal for that matter. Classic male jewelry is usually a sober affair (unless your name happens to be DJ Khaled).

Signet rings, however, are much easier to wear than most pieces. You don’t have to be landed gentry to slip one on. Nor do you need access to an Italian fashion fortune. Our expert guide to signet rings proves that any man can pull it off.

Where Did They Actually Come From?

Once upon a time, people used to send letters. Actual handwritten, send-in-the-post letters. Before some genius came up with the idea of self-adhesive envelopes, such correspondence was usually sealed with wax. And for that, they needed a tool to do it with.

“Signet rings – jewelry that was created with a back to front crest – were used to stamp and sign documents, and they go as far back as the 4th century BC in Ancient Egypt,” says Josie Goodbody, jewelry historian and author of The Diamond Connection.