Most of us go for an Oxford shoe without even thinking about it. It’s one of fashion’s few no-brainers: they’re the reliable leather lace-ups you turn to whenever you need to look smart. Nothing else comes close. The definition of a smart shoe, the Oxford takes us from school to work, stopping off at every conceivable formal occasion along the way. It’s a style we’ve long taken for granted and now is the time to rejoin the appreciation society.

Named after a shoe that became popular at The University of Oxford in the 1800s, the style was originally a more comfortable alternative to heeled boots, which were standard-issue for men of the time. There’s also some Celtic blood in the lineage: some Oxfords are still known as Balmorals because they can be traced back to footwear worn in Scotland and Ireland.

Today, Oxford shoes are available in a number of iterations, but each one is elegant, formal and proper – the shoe of choice for everyone from suited young professionals to gentleman spies.

“Every welted shoemaker in the world has a version of this style, and although they all have the same features, they are all separated by how the shoemaker executes the making of the shoe,” explains Tony Gaziano, creative director of British shoemaker Gaziano & Girling.

What Defines An Oxford Shoe?

Three things define an Oxford. They sit under your ankle, have a low heel and, most importantly, the lacing system is stitched closed at the bottom (closest to your toes). That’s the key difference between an Oxford and a Derby shoe, which is open both at the top and the bottom of the lacing section. This construction technique makes an Oxford snugger on foot and more streamlined, giving it a more formal appearance.

Types Of Oxford Shoes

Knowing the difference between an Oxford and a brogue is another thing that separates the menswear newbs from the menswear nerds. Many people assume the two are completely different shoes, but that’s not the case.