Consider this an apology. For years we – and the rest of the style world, in fact – have been telling you that suits should be neat and closely fitted. But as it turns out, everything we thought we knew is wrong. For the past few seasons, a slate of designers has been making the case for tailoring that is big, bolshy and purposefully oversized.

Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia arguably kick-started the Billy Big Blazer movement with his coat hanger shoulders, though lately it’s been the likes of Kim Jones at Dior steering the trend, using dress-making techniques to create softly draped jackets that hang away from the body instead of close to it. With the high street now getting in on the act, this isn’t just a look for the catwalk or the red carpet, but rather a fresh new way to do tailoring while exuding big suit energy. Here’s how to do it.

Oversized Tailoring Style Tips

Size Matters

“There’s a fine line when wearing oversized tailoring – no one wants to look like they have borrowed their father’s jacket,” says MatchesFashion senior style editor Chris Hobbs. First and foremost, this means buying pieces that are purposefully overblown and not just a few sizes too big. Oversized will be exaggerated in the correct places, usually the shoulders and leg, rather than just being baggy all over.

Double-Up

By which we don’t mean pulling a Joey Tribbiani and wearing everything all at once. Nay, we’re talking about double-breasted jackets, “a trend that’s definitely building momentum” according to ASOS head of menswear design James Lawrence. “It gives a structured boxy silhouette which looks relaxed when worn open.” Look for styles with either four buttons (two rows of two) or an ultra-modern single-button closure.

Zara

Be Realistic

One size fits all is certainly not a phrase that applies to oversized tailoring, which means this is one trend that should be approached with caution. “Personally I think you have to have a good stature and shoulders with some height so that oversized items ‘hang’ well,” says Hobbs. Men with a slighter frame should go for something with a more regular fit on top, experimenting instead with wide-leg trousers. Similarly, stockier men might be best sticking to a more tailored fit, as oversized fits naturally add bulk.