Mezcal Pierde Almas Puritita Verda, 42% ABV

Mezcal lends cocktails a smoky tang, but aged versions can overpower the rest of the glass. The solution? This soft joven mezcal from Pierde Almas – a brand that otherwise crafts more complex strains – which comes in at a lower ABV, with the agave’s sweetness at the fore. Perfect in mixed drinks, but its freshness means it’s also a good for palate prep before you hit the harder stuff. Available from Amathus, priced £38.86.

Ilegal Reposado Mezcal, 40% ABV

Back in 2004, mezcal was such a parochial business barely any was export certified. Which demanded devious means to get it out of Mexico, like dressing up as a priest and muleing it out in duffel bags. Today, poacher John Rexler has turned gamekeeper. His distiller, Eric Hernandez, roasts agave over oak, mesquite and eucalyptus, then gives the reposado five months in charred casks. The resulting drop is intricate, full of wood smoke, but also a big hit of toffee, chocolate and green apple. So good, it should be illegal. Luckily, it isn’t anymore. Available from Harvey Nichols, priced £55.

Cocktail Recipe: The Mezcal Old Fashioned

Just because a spirit works straight up, that doesn’t mean you can’t experiment. “The general rule is that if the the ingredient works with gin, it works with mezcal,” says Sophie Bratt, who crafts agave-heavy drinks at the OXO Bar. “Lemon, lime and grapefruit are all great. But this is probably my favourite way to drink it in a cocktail.”

Ingredients

50ml QuiQuiRiqui San Juan Del Rio Mezcal (“It has lovely fresh citrus notes and lighter floral ones too”) 1 barspoon agave nectar 2 dash orange bitters 1 dash orange flower water Orange peel twist Pinch of nutmeg Stir all the ingredients in a glass, with ice, until they’re completely dissolved. Garnish with the orange peel and a dust of nutmeg.