For years watchmakers were the masters of hype in menswear. Witness the droves of watch fanatics who’d make the pilgrimage to Baselworld every year just to catch a glimpse of a new Hublot, or Patek Philippe slapping an eight-year waiting list on its famous Nautilus and vetting customers like they’re on the FBI watch list.

But for all of their skill at making people want their products really, really badly, there’s a new kid on the block, and this upstart is arguably even better at driving hype around its brands.

Less than two decades ago streetwear was a mere pimple on the face of fashion. Now it is the face, as fervent queues of excited fashionistas wait around the block to cop the latest Supreme drop or the freshest Yeezys. For some it’s become an obsession, only matched by those watch fanatics sitting across the room.

And in streetwear, the watch world has seen an opportunity, not only to share some of streetwear’s limelight but also open itself up to a young demographic seemingly out-of-touch with the centuries-old heirlooms they see their dads covet so highly.

The first love-in between the watch world and streetwear began in 1997 as G-Shock, the chunky off-shoot of Japanese watchmaker Casio teamed up with the much lesser-known at the time Stussy, a surfwear brand that has risen to become part of the triumvirate of streetwear brands alongside Supreme and Palace.

Supreme, the undisputed heavyweight champion of streetwear, didn’t enter the watch world until 2013 when it came out with a reworked version of the Rolex Submariner, taking advantage of the esteem the Swiss watchmaker is held in among the streetwear crowd while putting its own subversive statement on one of the most classic timepieces in watch history (a fruity expletive was included just under the Rolex signature).