Men's fashion guides

Tracksuits And Sweatsuits: How To Wear A Retro Classic

In hindsight, this was inevitable. Ever since Mad Vlad Putin was snapped pumping iron in a pair of £2,000 Loro Piana joggers, we’ve been moving inexorably to the day when men could wear matchy-matchy sportswear for activities other than rolling snitches into the East River. To Armie Hammer in Adidas Originals, 2 Chainz in full-look Gucci and Alex Turner in his bespoke, baby blue number from Aussie designer Ray Brown.

It’s a weird and wonderful world, but we’re onboard. Menswear offers up its share of ridiculous trends, but few that have comfort so baked in. And as with almost everything we wear these days, you can thank rap for that. “The tracksuit trend partly stems from the rise of the word ‘cozy’ as an adjective in terms of a clothing aesthetic, from around 2013 onwards,” says Andrew Brines, buyer at Oki-Ni.

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For proof, peep the A$AP Mob’s Cozy Tapes, the first of which opens with an ode to being, “sweatsuited up […] terry cloth and all that shit”, before flipping rap’s normal braggadaccio script as Juicy J and A$AP Rocky do battle over whose wardrobe is snuggliest. “Came through with the real good, goose-down bubble jacket with the snow boots […] Outfit so fly, fell asleep before he left the house.”

The tracksuit is that sentiment dialled up, a flex that says you’re so beyond dress codes, expectations, social decorum, that coziness is all you care about when perusing your wardrobe of a morning. As Seinfeld’s George Costanza once dreamed, “I would drape myself in velvet if it were socially acceptable.” Thanks to hip hop and Alessandro Michele, two decades on, it is.

A few trends converge in the tracksuit, the big one being athleisure, which has morphed from wearing Air Max with your suit into going to work dressed like a football coach. But there’s also fashion’s current obsession with the 70s and the 90s, two decades that saw sportswear transcend, y’know, sport, and grime’s second wind, which saw kids in trackies take over the charts.

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