The simple handkerchief is – by most accounts – at least a few centuries older than the modern suit. In fact, it dates as far back as Shakespearean times (those of you who weren’t sleeping through English Lit. will remember it being an integral plot device in Othello), with many claiming this humble accessory has its roots in the square-shaped cloths carried by Richard II’s courtiers for the purely practical purpose of nose-blowing.

Since then, the pocket square has become a sartorial staple for the modern man, proudly presented in the breast pockets of Hollywood stars and Presidents alike. Whether cotton, linen or silk, plain, patterned or printed, one of these square pieces of cloth has the potential to pull an average tailored look into the A-grade.

A Pocket Square Primer

So, how to reach pocket square perfection? Here are a few simple rules for nailing this subtle sartorial detail:

No Matchy-Matchy

“One of the big pocket square no-nos for me is when they directly match the tie, like they came together in a set,” says Dan Rookwood, US Editor at Mr Porter. “A pocket square should be used to add some interest in terms of color and/or pattern.”

With this in mind, start by considering the rest of your outfit and then coordinate your accessories accordingly, without matching exactly. For example, a hint of burgundy in your pocket square’s print or pattern will team well with a burgundy tie.

Colours & Patterns

While the possible combinations are endless, it’s worth starting off by stocking up on some of the essentials to ensure that you’ll always have something outfit-appropriate to hand.

Plain color styles are an absolute must, their simplicity and lack of pattern making them easy to match with your ensemble. Especially worthwhile investing in when taking your first steps into pocket squares is a classic white version – now widely considered as much a wardrobe essential as the Oxford shirt or Derby shoe.