For many, the word ‘eggnog’ instantly brings visions of candy canes, Bing Crosby and seasonally bloated family gatherings to mind. After all, everyone knows eggnog is a Christmas drink – right? “Eggnog is a hearty, wintry classic, and the perfect drink for cold, snowy days,” agrees Pierre-Marie Bisson of Soho’s cocktail-cum-dessert bar, Basement Sate. “But it’s not just for Christmas.” Although eggnog’s origins are often debated, most culinary historians agree that the drink descended from a syrupy, boozy British concoction called posset: a warm mixture of milk, bracing sugar, hearty egg yolks and spiced sweet wine, popular among the 17th century aristocracy. Later enthusiastically adopted by the American colonies, the wine was soon replaced with spirits and eggnog as we know it was born. “In our version, the Toffee Bum, we omit the eggs and replace them with salted caramel for thickness, as well as vanilla and sherry for extra depth,” says Bisson. While innovative in many respects, Bisson is a traditionalist at heart, siding with the colonial preference for rum instead of today’s modern penchant for bourbon-based ‘nogs. “Appleton VX has a slight sharpness with additional notes of cinnamon, cloves and star anise that blend amazingly well with the rest of the flavour palette here,” he says. “A dark rum already has hints of coffee notes, but will leave the drink heavy. It’s all about the balance in a brew this rich.” Likewise, Bisson opts for a semi-dry sherry. “The cocktail’s equilibrium would be interrupted if we were to use a fino [lighter and drier] or a Pedro Ximénez [heavier and sweeter].” “The texture of the caramel and thick, creamy whole milk brings a structure to the drink that calls to mind a set custard, making it the perfect marriage between a cocktail and a dessert,” says Bisson. “Ideal for a chilly January.”