Defining Your Jacket Style

How do you choose a new jacket, I wonder?

There’s nothing quite like putting on an impeccably fitted suit jacket; indeed, the confidence an expert cut can give you is not to be underestimated. But what should we be looking out for when we buy a suit jacket?

If you’re fortunate enough to have a good tailor, they’ll no doubt be your first port of call for sound advice. If, on the other hand, you’re hitting the high street, then beware of overbearing sales associates who are far more interested in securing a transaction than offering guidance. In both instances, you’ll better your chances of finding quality for money if you’re armed with some tailoring savvy.

A tailor will have a ‘house style’ and my fundamental advice on this is to simply go with it. If you find you are asking for jacket details that aren’t in sync with the house’s signature cut, then you’re probably with the wrong tailor. Your best plan of action is to first select the tailor and house cut that you like, and work closely with them from there on in.

But whether you’re with a tailor or buying ready-to-wear, always consider the following:

Single-Breasted Jackets

Single-breasted suit jackets and blazers typically have two or three buttons and a notch lapel. You might also come across a single button with a peak lapel, though this is more a hallmark of the classic dinner jacket.

The main advantage of opting for a two-button jacket is that it guides the eyes along the lapels to a lower point on your frame. This, in turn, elongates the ‘V’ shape and will give you a more elegant line to your silhouette, while also revealing more of your – hopefully well thought-out – shirt and tie combination. Think of a two-button jacket as the safe yet stylish decision for any body type.

Alternatively, there’s the three-button jacket. It’s worth bearing in mind that this style is most certainly not for everyone, with the reason being that if you are over six foot tall it can make you appear lanky and tubular. It might seem, following this line of logic, that this type of jacket would be ideal for more rotund gentlemen. Not so. If anything it only draws the eye to what you’re trying to conceal.