Keep belt loops for casual styles, such as cords, chinos and flannel trousers.

Keep Belt Loops For Casual Styles Such As Chinos, Cords and Flannel Trousers

Pleats: Forward, Reverse Or None At All?

There are two types of pleats: reverse pleats (in the British tradition) or forward pleats. Reverse pleats open towards the pocket, while forward pleats open towards the trouser zipper.

Although often thought of as an aesthetic addition, pleats are in fact functional, allowing for greater range of movement and accommodating the widening of your hips when you sit down. If you’re of a bigger build, it may be worth sticking to pleat-free, flat front trousers to avoid the fabric bulkiness enlarging your silhouette.

However, if you do opt for pleats, I personally find two (double pleated) to be better – one seems like a half-baked gesture.

Double Reverse Pleat Trousers

Straight Hem Or Turn Up?

This is probably evident but worth reiterating on the off chance you’re still unsure.

Suit trousers should almost always have plain bottoms – i.e. the hem of the trousers is finished straight and not turned up. Trouser turn-ups are a great touch to casual styles (cords, chinos and flannel trousers) but they’re not fit for true formal wear.

Opt for a straight trouser hem (left) rather than a turn-up (right)

The Best Break

Too little, and you run the risk of looking like you’re trying to pull off some kind of Capri pant-inspired catastrophe; too much, and it will look like you’re wearing your older brother’s hand-me-downs.

Finding the ideal break – where your trousers create a single horizontal crease on meeting your shoe – can be difficult when buying off-the-rack. If I’m being perfectly honest, it’s best to head straight to your tailor and have him or her adjust your trouser so that you have a single break over your shoe. It’s an inexpensive alteration that makes a world of difference.