Question: When is a check shirt much more than just any old check shirt? Answer: When it’s a traditional Madras shirt – as timeless and iconic as the style gets, and a summer wardrobe staple for men in the know.

What Is Madras Plaid?

Madras is a lightweight cotton that’s perfect for the type of shirt you need when it’s hot outside and you want to look cool. Yet there’s also a genuine art and history to the Madras shirt.

“Madras fabric is the eponymous cloth traditionally made in Madras [now called Chennai], India,” says Paul Simons, son and business partner of legendary London menswear designer John Simons. “It’s a loosely woven pure cotton that is traditionally dyed in a plethora of muted – and some not so muted – check patterns.

“It’s characteristically soft and lightweight, which lends itself perfectly to the button down shirt, creating an easy-to-wear and extremely comfortable summer shirt. It was particularly popular in the Ivy League style of 1960s USA.”

The History of the Madras Shirt

Like a lot of menswear classics, the Madras shirt was popular around the middle of the 20th century. It’s pure Americana, but is a little unfairly associated with US tourists. It was also worn by mods in 1960s Britain and suedeheads in the 1970s, although you could never call it counter-culture. Worn correctly, however, it’s proof that the much-derided short-sleeve shirt should have a permanent spot in your wardrobe.

“It would definitely be seen as a casual shirt,” says Simons. “But these days, just wearing a shirt can be seen as smart. The shirt itself should have unlinked collar and cuffs to give it that perfect relaxed feel. Personally, I like to wear them untucked with plain shorts, tucked in an opened collar with a pair of jeans, or even with a knitted tie.”

The Best Madras Shirt Brands

If you’re looking to add a few madras shirts to your wardrobe, here are the best brands to find them from.