Well over a century old and practically lined with menswear heritage, the duffle coat is fashion at its most historic and most practical. Forget Paddington Bear (who admittedly wore it well). The duffle is synonymous with sailors and protesting students and, this year, it’s the coat that designers are returning to in droves.

In a lot of ways, it’s the consummate winter coat. Casual and tactile, it’s usually spotted in warm winter colours that make it an inviting cocoon in cold and wet weather. And while the duffle coat isn’t made from modern fabrics with taped seams or hidden pockets, it has serious outdoors pedigree.

Like trench coats, bomber jackets and a lot of menswear besides, this wardrobe staple is a decorated military veteran. Adopted by the British Navy in the late 19th century, it became standard issue on the decks of freezing frigates and remained in service throughout World War II (Field Marshal Bernard Montgomery, not history’s most obvious fashion influencer, was a big fan).

After the war ended, the military released a huge number of surplus coats to the public. The low cost and hardy construction attracted students and artists among others, and even now, the duffle coat carries a touch of the preppy British scholar about it.

The back-to-school vibe, mixed with its utilitarian roots, means it slots seamlessly into modern menswear. It was spotted on the runways for labels as diverse as Valentino and Kent & Curwen. Which means there’s consensus: you need one.

Gloverall

What Is A Duffle Coat?

The duffle (not to be confused with the peacoat) is a lot of coat, and that’s putting in mildly. Traditionally cut boxy from heavy, coarse wool, it also features a much larger hood than other coats with this kind of heritage – think monk habit or Jedi cloak and you’re on the right lines.